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At last the time to depart on this epic Safari had arrived, 6 June 2004. Over ten years ago my dream was to visit Serengeti. I soon turned this into a goal and my wife and I started the wheels in motion. Ria re-read all the magazines we had accumulated, Getaway, etc and our Bradt and Planet books on Botswana, Zambia, Tanzania, Kenya and Malawi. We spoke to various friends and 4x4 folk we had met on our travels with a view of getting another vehicle to join us for backup. This went on for years with good intent but no firm commitment. In the meantime, the research continued.
Ria made notes of contacts and campsites in the various countries. We planned the trip in such a way that we knew where to stay each night, in good time and not be stranded at dusk looking for a place to stay. For budget and sourcing purposes research into fuel was done and enough info was gathered on availability and price. We noted costing on third party insurance, border entry fees, ferry, accommodation and related costs in the various parks we were to visit.
We would take along most of our food and drinks. A "menu" for the +/- eight weeks was drawn up. Water for drinking would be transported in the Land Rover's two tanks and the one under the Chobe caravan. We also acquired a water filter and "blue gold" to purify water when necessary as water in some countries was very suspect. Travel requirements regarding visas, carnet for vehicles and medical shots were obtained. Armed with this info a budget was drawn up (fuel, food, accommodation, park fees, visas, carnet, medical, T-shirts and curios, minor repairs e.g. tyre replacement). The cost would vary from day to day depending if we were traveling all day or stationary for a few days and whether we were camped in or outside a national park.
For example (for two persons) no traveling camped outside a park food, drinks and camping fee US$10. For a day's travel add fuel +/- R550. Most expensive, (to get to Serengeti one has to pass through the Ngorongoro conservation area) Ngorongoro US$ 90, Serengeti entry: vehicle US$ 30, two people entry US$ 40, camping two people US$ 40, to total US$ 200. The exchange rate was R7 to the US$, so that day was to cost R 1400 plus fuel, food and drinks +/- R2000.
An itinerary was drawn up as a guide on our trip and to facilitate the drawing up of the budget. With the above info I worked on a budget of R900 per day for 56 days. (This included the food and drinks we were to take with us). I took in cash R 1000, Pula 2000, US$ 5000 and travellers cheques US$ 1000. This lot was secured in a hidden not-so-easy-to-find box in the vehicle. The dollars were split into 10 bundles, each comprising of 10x$1, 4x$5, 7x$10, and 20x$20. All entry and camping is paid for in cash in US$ (US$50 and 100 are not easy to use and change could be given in the local currency depending on the type of transaction.) The notes must be the new series from about 1996 and have the large head as opposed to the small presidents head on them, not written on, ink-stained, torn or defaced in any way or you will not be able to use them. I did have a few notes in poor condition and with the smaller head on and was unable to use them. US$ 1 bought +/-1095 Tanzanian shillings and 4755 Zambian Kwacha. The only currency we could purchase before leaving was the Pula and US$. The other currencies are not available at our local banks. I purchased the US$ at Johannesburg International Airport to get the mix I wanted.
The planning was complete. Contacts were established by phone, post and E-mail. We had established where the campsites were and had earmarked a few extra in case our schedule was derailed (more of this later). We had been warned about dirty fuel, so checked with my Land Rover service man on how to bleed the system.
What did we take with us?
Firstly, our neighbours were going with us on this safari. Mike and Margaret Milford, their Land Rover TD5 and Echo Chobe caravan. Ria and I with our Land Rover TDi and Echo Chobe caravan. Apart from the usual camping gear, Ria and I took along a 60-litre Engel operating as the fridge, a 60-litre Minus 40 as the deep freeze. A 1kVA Honda generator output 220v AC and 12v DC. A 150 Watt inverter (for small items needing charging.) Junkers hot water gas geyser (for those hot showers and greasy dishes) Vehicle registration papers, Tanzanian visa. US$120 or I paid at the time rand equivalent R 818 (Tanzanian embassy in Pretoria). Carnet for at least 6 entry and exit (2 for Zambia, 2 for Tanzania, 1 for Kenya, 1 for Malawi) and international driving licence obtainable from the AA. If you are for instance only visiting Zambia it is not necessary to obtain a carnet but a great help if visiting multiple countries.
Road Atlas (Southern and East Africa). Travel books on the countries we were visiting. (Just as well, but more of that later). Red and white reflector tape and spare reflectors. (More about this later). Comprehensive vehicles insurance. My insurance through REAM would expatriate us both and the vehicles if necessary. Medical equipment (with Ria being an operating theatre sister and Mike also in the medical world we had everything but the kitchen sink). I took no extra fuel in jerry cans, only one 20 litre unleaded for the generator (we didn't see any unleaded up there). Two of each No. 10 and 7 gas cylinders. Two spare wheels and two additional tubes (the caravan has the same wheels as the Land Rover). Limited spares, being an alternator, oil and fuel filter, various drive belts which I had accumulated after each service. An itinerary as a guide with a view to see the wildebeest and zebra by the 1st of July. The itinerary had approximate nights and venues en route and noted campsites and distances I had worked out from the atlas. Travel folder for passports, medical certificates where applicable (we had our cholera, hepatitis A & B and yellow fever shots), Registration papers. Proof of comprehensive insurance. Emergency telephone numbers in RSA.
After many months of preparation we packed ALL the above mentioned and were ready to depart.
Whilst busy writing this story I suddenly reflected on my travels as a youngster, say from 10 years of age. My sister and I resided with our parents in Luanshya, Northern Rhodesia (now Zambia). We travelled extensively through Zambia up to Lake Tanganyika and onto to Lake Malawi and back via Lusaka. Down to Durban or Cape town for a annual holiday. Took us four or five days to Durban and mostly on gravel or strip roads through the Rhodesias in a standard Vanguard car towing a homemade wooden box trailer (named Rosie) with bell tent and all. No food, water or fridges. The food was bought daily. Late afternoon my father would pull off the road and state that this was a likely spot to camp for the night. (There were times en route where there were campsites). I was given a large bucket and despatched into the farmer's land for water to be drawn from a well or the farmhouse. This water was for cooking the evening meal, washing the dishes and bits of one's self and for tea in the morning. (Can't remember drinking coffee in those days). Also the tow hitch as we know it today (ball & socket) hadn't arrived in Africa yet, well not in Northern Rhodesia. A piece of robust metal was attached to the car and the trailer had a piece of flat bar attached to the draw bar with several holes drilled in its length. A sizeable bolt was inserted and connected to the car. Needless to say as the road was not flat all the way to Durban (as we had to negotiate a few mountain passes ) the flat bar would shear at the weakest part which was where the bolt passed through it and car and trailer would part company. (It was my sister's and my duty to take turns to sit on the rear seat facing the rear window and keep an eye on the trailer and cry out 'Rosie's gone' when this mishap occurred. Father would reverse, rehitch by using the next available hole and continue. On one occasion whilst negotiating the Chirundu escarpment Rosy parted company with the car. That was almost the end of the holiday and equipment as we watched helplessly as she ran away towards the edge and by some miracle came to rest against a boulder. We had visions of the trailer going over the edge like in the old cowboy movies
So here we are today using all this modern technology and travelling in luxury, fully equipped and the larder stocked. And why not? Why should we have to travel like our great, great grandparents did by ox wagon and all?
Saturday 6 June 2004 dawned and the two vehicles departed from Lone Hill at 06h30. Odometer reading 128477 km. Arrived at the RSA/Botswana border at 12 noon at Grobler's Bridge (128908km). SA customs asked Mike to show them the engine number on the Land Rover but couldn't locate it. After passing through Botswana customs and stopping for pad kos we were on our way at 13h00 (128918km). Decided to go through Parr's Halt next time, much quieter and easier. At Botswana customs we paid 20 pula road safety levy for each vehicle (Landy and caravan). Also P100 for a short term permit for the two vehicles for a single entry. If you know you are coming back through Botswana then enquire the fee for a double entry. On our return at Kazangula I paid P80?
Just before Serule on the detour Mike found the police very friendly as they waved to him and he in turn returned the compliment. Only to hear him calling on the radio that they had put chase and pulled him over for speeding. Paid the appropriate fine and we continued. At 17h00 we put in fuel in Francistown and decided not camp at the Marong in town but push on to Woodlands campsite about 15 km on the Nata road. Today we passed through a few speed traps, vet control gates (but not stopped) put in fuel at (129193km) litre 94.024, Pula 220 @ P2.34 per/litre. Closed at (129213km) 756 Km today.
Left Woodlands Sunday 6th at 07h15. On the way to Kazangula we saw lots of game. Stopped in Kasane for fuel as the old garage at Kazungula was closed. Mike had to go to a Lodge to change money as the credit card m/c wasn't working. Pula 190.31 litre 77.99 @ P 2.44 per/L Sailed through customs at Kazungula @ 1340 (129727). There were Lorries for Africa and lots of cars waiting for the Ferry to cross the Zambezi to Zambia. It wasn't long before the ferry had broken down and the progress to the front of the queue was halted. We had lots of time to talk to the various travellers which included the truck drivers and we were kept amused for the 2 hours it took to fix the ferry. There were frequent walks into the bushes by most people as there are no toilet facilities. We eventually got on the last ferry at 1745. At this stage there was much jockeying for position and tempers were flying. The net result was those vehicles that didn't make it had to retreat to a point of which I am not sure about. I presume trucks back to the front of the truck queue and cars back to camp at Kazangula. The other alternative is to go via Zimbabwe to the Vic Falls and cross into Zambia there. Not that the trucks are permitted to do this as all of them here are 3 axle trucks and are not permitted on the Zimbabwean roads, hence the long queue here. There is talk of a bridge to be built at this point.
We cleared Zambian immigration and customs very quickly as they were closing up shop for the day. Paid for the ferry (US$ 15 or you can pay in Rands) vehicle only, bought our 3 rd party insurance costing K80, 000, (paid in rand approx R135??). It is an absolute must to buy the insurance at the border as at the first road block this has to be produced. Not that we were stopped as we left in the dark at about 1830. Drove through the game reserve with care and arrived at Maramba campsite at 1935. (129816) after making camp Mike took us all to the restaurant for supper at 2030 and then had boiling hot shower and went to bed. Monday 7th, I was up a 0530 and made coffee and breakfast. Took our time and left at 0830. Camping was US$5 P/P and a power point US$3. In Livingstone we were looking for a Bureau de Change and pulled off the main road. Mike and I got out the vehicles with engines still running and the girls still inside when the police descended on us and said there was no parking here. We had not seen the sign further back. After much discussion that we were not parked but only stopping we were told to proceed to the police station. They followed in a taxi as they had been on foot. At the charge office we asked to speak to the station commander who duly listened to our story and in the meantime Ria produced my article I had written on Zambia the previous year in which I had written many good things about the country and its people. After this he wished us well and we returned to Livingstone.
Changed money at a Bureau after some bother as some of the notes were slightly defaced. (US$ 300 bought K1, 426,500) On the whole trip I never tried to use plastic money to put in fuel so I don't know if this would have been a better option as we carried bundles of local currency. For example it took K 400,000 to put in fuel. Eventually left at 0930 (129823) for Lusaka. The police at a roadblock a few km out of town were very polite. Asked us to produce our 3 rd party and advised us of the speed limit and wished us well. We passed through a number of road blocks and didn't have to stop at most of them. Stopped in Mazabuka, a big town with a huge supermarket full of SA products. Next to it we discovered an Ice cream parlour and treated ourselves. Changed drivers and left at 1435 (130186).Reached Kafue / Chirundu T junction at 1530 (130258).Arrived in Lusaka at 1630 in rush hour (very busy) (130320) Travelled north to Frangilla farm which is 50 km north of Independence arch in Lusaka. Took a room here as the camp site was being refurbished. Camping would have cost US$ 5 P/P Frangilla is a full farm, with butchery, meat factory. Good post office, workshop for repairs, good bar and restaurant. One can purchase vegetables in season, meat, sausage, bacon, homemade pies (The best I have ever seen and eaten at K5000 each, about R8) We ate supper in the restaurant, delicious oxtail and potatoes and I went traditional as well and had Nshima (stywe pap) and eaten by hand! The meal for 4 cost K 120000, just under R 50 a head. Next day, the manager, Alan, a very friendly and knowledgeable man showed us around the farm in the morning He took us to a field where astrologers from the USA and elsewhere had gathered to watch Venus crossing the sun. We was fortunate to experience this and they offered us a look through special binoculars and telescopes. Last eclipse like this was in the 1800's For breakfast we bought their pies and they were absolutely delicious. As our journey was only beginning we didn't buy any more as our fridge and freezer were full We left Fringilla at 0840 (130370) on Tue 8 June Since arriving on the ferry the road has been excellent, full tar and only a few potholes at the T junction and just before Lusaka but the road was being upgraded. We were pulled off at a police road block just before Kabwe. We were to be fined K 54,000 for not having a red T sign on the caravan. In the bush office the two in charge said there would be no fine but I was to rectify the problem, they were very polite and pleasant. I gave them K 10,000 to buy lunch (Cost of two pies)... Back at the caravan I put on the red reflective tape with police assistance and they bade us a good trip Put in fuel at Kabwe. K 338,000 97.575 L @K3464 P/L (130462) Note there is camping, chalets and hot showers at Forest Inn (130595), 63 km North of Kapiri Mposhi and 30 km South of Mkushi ( Attractions in the area if you are only doing Zambia are, Fort Elwes, Shiwa N'gandu, Shoebill island, Wonder gorge, Kasanka National park, Kundalila waterfalls ) Another road block and were told we had no white reflectors in front of the Land Rover. If we put them on we wouldn't be fined K 54,000, she said, laughing. Out came the white reflector tape and duly applied to the front. Again a very nice and polite, police woman this time. Note on left-hand side Sweetwater guest house (130658). At this stage the grass was as high as an elephant's eye. Also guest farm 5 km off the road (130750). After Kapiri Mposhi we turned right on the Serenje / Tunduma road At 1445 we came to the turning (130801) for the Kundalila Falls national Park. (Just before Kanona) Arrived at the entrance at 1510 (130813). The only facility in the very open campsite is an Asian long drop toilet. The attendant who showed us where to camp also took us on the footpath to view the falls. The falls are quite beautiful in a setting among the Muchinga Mountains and escarpment. I have a receipt for US$ 26 and it states for visiting the falls, I presume for the 4 of us and for camping? Left the falls wed 9 June at 0930 Put in fuel at Mpika (131015) K 298,000 74.6 L @ K3995 p/l at 1130 Bought beers at nearby pub (only bottles, we were fortunate to have brought along a few pick n pay green canvas bags). The road was very quiet and the potholes were few and far between After Mpika we went through more roadblocks for insurance, lights and reflector checks, by now we were fully compliant. We also went through an army checkpoint and they said they were very hungry, so Mike gave them some bread, for which they were very grateful North of Mpika there were two lodges with camping, on right hand side. We were still in the Muchinga escarpment, very beautiful. Mikes GPS recorded us at 5620 ft above sea level. The truckers and taxis were no problem and truckers used indicators to advise when to overtake. The road up here was very quiet and in excellent condition. Turned off to Shiwa N'gandu and travelled on a sand road for about 13 km before arriving at the house. Shiwa N'gandu was founded by Stewart Gore-Brown, who was born in England in1883 (Take an opportunity to read up on the fascinating history in the Bradt travel guide on Zambia and there is a book recently written called The Africa House.) I had to take three photos with my 35mm lens to get the whole house in and then put them together as one. We had to wait quite a while for the guide to arrive. The tour inside the house cost US$20 each and included a game drive which we opted out of as it was already 1700 and we had some 20 km to go through a forest on a sand road to Kapishya Hot Springs campsite After setting up camp the other three went to visit the Hot springs which has a pool of hot spring water and a cool rocky river, both of which make great sites for bathing ( here they were eaten alive by mosquitoes ). I organised a Braai and then it was off to bed. Thursday 10 June we loafed around camp and spent some time bathing in the natural pool Checked the Land Rover over, oil, water, tyres while Ria did the laundry. I went to the nearby lodge to pay for camping (US$ 7 p/p p/n) and spoke to Mark Harvey for ages about old times and the family history of Shiwa Fri 14 Th June we left Kapishya at 0820 (131139) and were at the house at 0900 (131160) and were on the main road at 0920 (131172) and passed Chinsali turnoff at 1015 (131255). At 1310 we arrived at the turnoff (131420) to Kings Highway camping and chalets. We decided to turn in and have a look. Once there we first had pad kos. This is a mission station run by young missionaries from SA. They showed us around the Mission, chalets and campsite At this stage the campers use the chalets ablution (very good showers and flush toilets) as the campsite ablution is still to be built. We highly recommend these facilities. This mission is 57 km from the border with Tanzania. There is no wildlife, birds or rats in the area. The people are so poor they eat anything that moves. Ria got bitten on her arm by something and had to take an antihistamine as it was quite itchy and red. The missionaries were really pleased to see us and wished for more visitors The rates were: campsite $ 5 p/p, 2 bed chalet $ 20 p/p, 2 bed chalet p/p $ 12, 4 bed chalet $ 25 p/p, seems steep for chalets. Shower $ 2 p/p
We were at the border at Lekonde at 1400?? (131476). Put in fuel before the border K 263465 66.7 litre @ K 3959 p/l. After clearing Zambian immigration and customs we couldn't leave the country as the "official" at the exit had gone walkabout. While waiting Mike took some video footage and suddenly the official appeared armed with an AK47. He told Mike he had to pay a fine or he would confiscate his vehicle. After paying him something he let us through and this was when a customs official was on his way to see why we were still at the boom. In hindsight we should have reported the official. I suppose one could say this is where "The real Africa starts " This was a really busy border post with lots of people all over the place with all types of transport. If it had wheels, it was here. I changed some $ into Tanzanian shillings here from guys on the street and felt quite comfortable about it but were advised not to do this in Zambia. On entering Tanzania we were approached by two well dressed gentlemen who were to sell us 3 rd party insurance. They offered to help us through all the customs and immigration formalities. We took one look at the ensuing chaos around us and various offices scattered all over the place, and decided this was a good idea. Mike and I were interrogated by the Tanzanian immigration for quite a while. We were even accused of smuggling guns into the country. Eventually after persuading them we were bon fide tourists they let us proceed. Our two "guides" took us from office to office, all separate, and a distance from one another. After much form filling in, using carnets, paying fees we were eventually finished and bought our 3 rd party and gave them a few $ each. Believe me I don't think we would have got through without their help. As it was it took about two and a half hours to clear the borders. Fees: Vehicle import US$ 20, road tax US$ 10, Third party US$ 90 or (Sh 90,000) We left Tunduma at 1700, Tanzanian time, as we had to set our watches forward 1 hour. This made it worse of course. (131477) The drive through the mountains was very beautiful. The road from the border was in a terrible condition, washed away and potholed but at least under construction. Getting to Mbeya in the dark was no joke, cars with no lights, Passengers hanging out of taxis and standing on running boards, driving on the wrong side of the road. Lots of speed humps and potholes. Mike was travelling in front and didn't see the first hump and then he hit it at about 40 km per hour. It was no joke and even though we slowed right down it was still viscous and the fridge jumped a few centimetres. From then on we were very wary when approaching towns (Villages) in Tanzania. Sometimes there are ripples across the road to warn you. (We had already come across this system of speed control in Zambia
We eventually found the mission called Karibuni center (Kanisa La Uinjilisti) and decided not to camp as a double room was 8000 shillings with shower and flush toilet. On arrival we ordered a meal and they would call us when it was ready. We ate in the restaurant our chicken and rice, I opted for the Nshima. The chicken was not the best but we ate all as we were quite hungry. Backpackers from NZ were staying here.
Sat June 12th met an American at the mission (Mike) who was working in Tanzania helping develop the people. He offered the use of his beach cottage South of Dar es Salaam, also gave me his business card in case we were in need of assistance. More of that later as we did contact him! Bought a loaf of bread for $ 1. In town we were to pay 300 shillings a loaf and 600 for some rolls. Left the mission at 0835 (131584) and went into Mbeya. At the Standard bank I decided to cash my $ 1000 traveller's cheques into shillings Sh 1,096,943, as getting to a bank on a trip such as this isn't always convenient. I took half and Mike paid me in cash US$ for the other half This place is chaos, plenty of beggars, hawkers, hand carts and people like ants. Had to drive very carefully. Noted diesel per/l cost Sh 848 in town and 800 on the main road Left Mbeya at 1000 (131590), altitude now dropping. We encountered viscous bumps north of Makambako. Past through Sao Hill (131882) 1355.Then Kisalonga farm (131882) where there is camping. Much has been written about carrying a set of triangles in case of a breakdown. Well in Tanzania there is no need to carry them as they grow them on trees here! So approaching a breakdown one sees branches cut from bushes or trees on the side of the road just protruding onto the tar indicating danger ahead. Should the leaves still be green and fresh looking then it is an indication that the vehicle is still ahead, around the corner or on a blind rise. If they are dried up the vehicle could still be there as the result of a major breakdown. Branches are not removed when the vehicle eventually moves off.
On the way to Iringa (still quite mountainous) Mike's vehicle started to boil. He had to keep stopping and starting but the engine started to cease. We also used the method of branches, in conjunction with our triangles to warn other traffic that we were stationary on this up and down winding road and not a very wide verge. Quite frightening when the trucks and inter city mainliner buses came hurtling past We quickly realised that a white line in Tanzania meant nothing to most vehicles on the road and one had to be very cautious. We saw several incidents of head on collisions. An Austrian by the name of Hans in his truck converted to a home on wheels stopped to help. He then proceeded to tow Mike and Margaret, Land Rover and caravan to towards Iringa Ria and I went ahead scouting for campsites along the way as this was an unscheduled stop. Ria also researched the travel books we had brought with and came up with two campsites, of which one was not too good at Iringa. We opted for the Huruma Baptist Conference centre. We all eventually made it to Iringa which is perched on top of a steep mountain and camped in their grounds. There were no ablution facilities available but were given one of the dormitory rooms and we were asked to use the shower and toilet facilities only. We were only charged for camping.
That night Margaret invited Hans for supper and after a long chat we departed for bed at 2230. By this time the wind had come up quite fiercely. Mike was busy pegging down his awning when he hit the main water line. The pressure was too great to repair it. I eventually located the staff that after closing the main repaired the damaged pipe. Mike took digital photos of the two men busy with the repairs and they couldn't believe their eyes when they saw the shots on the camera and their reaction was something to see. Eventually got to bed quite bushed
Earlier in the evening Mike used his cell phone to phone our contact friend we had met in Mbeya who happened to be having drinks with the man who was to fix the vehicle
Sunday 13 June we got up late, nice to sleep in. After taking everything out of the vehicle the garage towed it to their premises. Parts for the TD5 were not readily available and had to be flown in from SA. Had it been a TDI it would have been fixed chop chop as there are so many in Tanzania and Kenya. Plenty mosquitoes for this time of the year and also very cold when the wind blew. After a Braai we went to bed. Monday 14th June got up late again. Went into town, did some shopping and put in diesel (132000) 800sh p/l Sh 55,700 69.62 L. Changed cash US$ 300 for Sh 330,081 at the NBC, (National Bank of Commerce ) Mike hired the garage owner's petrol Land Rover. This was to be used to go to the Ruaha game reserve. A tow hitch was fitted, all equipment and fridges loaded into it ready for departure. Just as well we had brought along the Honda generators as with Mike not having a vehicle and we stationery for a few days and nowhere to plug into 220v
Tuesday 15th June 0930 (132007) Left campsite to pay at reception, Sh 3000 p/per p/ day, left at 0945 Travelled to the Ruaha and after some distance the road forks, one to the left passes through the villages and the other through the forest. We decided to go through the villages. Arrived at Msembe, the park entrance at 1315 where we stopped to pay entrance and camping. (Entrance for 2 persons for 3 days US$90, Vehicle 3 days US$90, Camping 2 persons 3 days US$ 120 to total US$300) Had pad kos for lunch and took photos. I slipped on a bank and wrenched my knee. Got to the Bandas (Chalets) at 1425 (132102).Ria and I took a Banda (Same price as camping) as I could hardly walk. Mike and Margaret camped at a nice spot up the river. There was an Asian long drop toilet there. At the Bandas there were cold showers (not a problem as it was hot in the Ruaha) and toilets., large hut with table and chairs (Dining room!) A kitchen with coal stove and wash-up facility At the Banda there was an outside tap. We spent three nights here and in all it was very pleasant with a nice setting on the river. The drive along the river was scenic and we encountered, Giraffe plenty Zebra, Thompson's Gazelle, Roan antelope Elephant, Lion, lots of bird life. Saw an amazing baobab with a hole in its middle and took some photos with a bit of innovation. In the book on the Ruaha there features a photo taken of it with a giraffe through the hole in the background At times the roads were quite rough. On another day on another route we saw rapids down below and took a steep walk down and it was worth the effort. Friday 18th June left the Bandas at 0825 ( 132265 ) and arrived at the park gate at 0955 (132274 ) This time we took the left-hand road as the scout said it was less corrugated but still seemed never ending. About 36 km from the gate on a nice stretch of road and without warning Mike hit a deep donga and was literally airborne. He warned me about this and of a second one. Quite a bit of damage could have resulted but the Land Rovers and Chobe caravans handled it well. We were at the fork in the road at 1115 (132325) (There is a campsite called Tungamalenga which we passed on the way into the Ruaha) Arrived in Iringa at 1250 (132394) Therefore the 120 km from the entrance gate to Iringa took us about 3 hrs. Put in diesel (132396) 805sh P/l 52 litres 41,860sh I decided to do an oil change at (132425) as we were spending so much time at the garage. The part only arrived this morning from SA as it was delayed at local customs in Dar. We decided to camp at the other campsite on the Dar es Salaam road. The campsite was set on grass amongst trees but the toilets and shower were not at all good and we had to share with scores of children on an outing. On Saturday Mike got his vehicle back and after a late lunch we broke camp, repacked his vehicle and left Riverside campsite at 1550 ( 132470 ). We didn't fancy staying another night here. Camping for us four for a night was 10,000sh. Our problems started again at 1730 (132540) when Mike's vehicle started to boil again. He felt this was an existing problem, thermostat related. Ria did some more research and came up with the Baobab campsite and we were to press on to find it. Then I would go back and tow Mike if necessary. We found the campsite at 1815 (132586) where we partially setup camp and I left Ria on her own. I left at 1840. Mike had made some progress and spent quite a bit of time working on the thermostat and was quite dirty and dusty. He followed me to camp where we had nice hot showers. Had soup for supper at 2230 Apart from camping there were Bandas (hut with open air sides and front); two beds and mosquito nets (Very basic). Campsite had nice hot showers and flush toilets. The site is next to the great Ruaha River. It was quite noisy with passing trucks The countryside again was beautiful and tropical. There were forests of Baobab trees for kilometres alongside and up the slopes of the mountains. The truckers were courteous and drove well. They show you when to overtake or fall back by using their indicators Next day Sunday left Baobab campsite at 0820 (132644) Passed through Mikumi at0920and then Genesis Motel and camping ( 132710 ) Mikumi park entrance ( 132712 ) ( the main road passes through the reserve ) and exit at (132756 ) We were at Mali at 1105 (1328140 on a new road and passed many sisal plantations. We finally got to Morogoro (This was where we were scheduled to stop had we not had problems at a place called Mama Perinas, no camping though) at 1135 (132829) Quite an impressive entrance to the town which quite nice. This was the first time we were stopped by the police who were very friendly and asked for something from SA. We gave them a Kit Kat and a packet of raisins and peanuts. To which we got a God bless you from a very humorous guy. We were continued to be amazed as to how they drive in Tanzania. Going through the mountains was very beautiful, much more so than the Drakensberg and more impressive. The road winds all the way down and followed the river. Altitude now 1200 ft and getting quite hot. Passed through Chalinze at 1245.A lot of roadworks at the bridge. Filled up at Korogowe 750sh p/l 86 litres 64500sh (133120). We crept over the speed humps Pole Pole (Slowly slowly) There were many rice fields and coconut palms a plenty. Were at Mombe (133162) at 1700 and arrived at Pagani campsite at (133211) The road was very busy and dangerous today.
Camping was US$ 3 P/P. The campsite had flushing toilets and hot showers. Though the water was straight out the river was smelly and not to clean. Used our drinking water to brush teeth. It also sported a small pub The camp is next to the river in a nice setting but we got eaten up by mosquitoes. Also it is located near the main road and quite a lot of truck noise
Monday 21st June we left Pagani at 0810 Passed through Same at 0950 (133286) There is the Elephant motel here which can be used in an emergency. This village seemed more organised than those we had passed through before in the South. The people were not so poor, better dressed, houses built better and no rubbish lying around. As in many places the availability of water is a problem. You see young people on bicycle transporting water in 4 X 25 litre plastic containers over long distances. Water and other goods are also transported in two wheel carts a la rickshaw style, often at speed on a down slope and no brakes!! In our travels we saw much of the local's way of life and found it interesting and fascinating. To travel to ones destination, whether it is the Ruaha, Serengeti, somewhere in Kenya, Zanzibar or where ever, do it by road and not fly in and out. We saw a few lodges and campsites on the Moshi road. Into Moshi at 1040 (133397).Quite a nice looking town. It is from here the trips to Mount Kilimanjaro are launched. We did not see Kili as it was covered in a blanket of cloud Altitude in town 3100ft Then we arrived in the much read about town of Arusha. As in towns and villages in this part of Africa, Arusha was no different It was quite "deur mekaar "Fascinating to say the least. A huge sprawling town, very busy with people and all types of vehicles, a mixture of buildings of past and present influence. Quite tricky to negotiate around and find what you are looking for, Gas for Mike and Land Rover spare for me and car stickers (I had broken the left rear indicator lens) Land Rover spares in Arusha are not a problem as there were many of these vehicles in the country. To refill a gas bottle was another story. We eventually learnt that the BP garage would be the source and one had to collect the next day and as we were not staying over Mike decide to leave it and fill up in Nairobi, although it was our intention to come back this way to go to Nairobi to sort out the thermostat problem More of this later. Unable to get any stickers.
Arusha is the launching pad for those people flying in from all over the world to experience the safaris of their choice (Kilimanjaro, Tarangirie, Lake Manyara, Ngorongoro, and Serengeti) As we had arrived by road and it was obvious to the touts we were organising our own safaris we were not hounded as the fly ins are. We did some shopping in the Shoprite Checkers (All SA branded goods available here) Including fresh meat and vegetables I even bought a piece of rump to Braai and when eaten was some what tough. There was ample parking and this where we ate our pad kos lunch undisturbed Put in Diesel here (133568) 900sh p/l 62 litres at 1535 Stopped briefly on the road to Tarangirie at the outskirts of Arusha at the Tanzanian National Parks Board for info, maps and stickers, but only managed to get some magazines. We did notice the national Heritage building opposite the parks board and decided to call in there when we passed through Arusha again.
"Oh were on safari now"
Arrived at campsite in Tarangirie +-1630 (133610 ) after paying fees, Entrance US$25 p/p p/day, Vehicle US$30 p/day, Camping US$20 p/p p/day for 3 days came to $360 Set up camp for a 3 night stop (we have an awning arrangement for a 1, 2, or 3 night stop) we had been busy all day and by now quite tired. The ablutions are clean and good, with flushing and Asian toilets. Cold showers The three nights and two days was pleasant and took it in turns to go for game drives as the baboons were a nuisance. One instance the Vervets were too quick for us and lost a few apples to them. On another occasion I was outside and when Ria came out she nearly freaked as Elephants had arrived in camp and I had my back to them. A civet visited camp on two occasions at night scratching around for titbits. We were unable to get a map of the park and once got horribly lost The mosquitoes and Tsetse fly was a nuisance
Thursday 24th Left camp at 0840 only to return to collect our wash line we had left behind. Left main gate at 0905 (133711) Turned left at the T junction on the main road at 0942 (133744), this was a new tar road. Before starting to climb the altitude was 3200ft. Passed Lake Manyara national park at 1015 at (133782) The road from here onwards towards Ngorongoro was under massive development and tricky to negotiate and we got lost due to missing signs for Tembo campsite and turned around a few times in narrow detours with the caravans. We eventually phoned the owner who met us amongst this road development and followed him up the mountain twisting and winding through a coffee plantation where the campsite was situated
Friday 25th we were up early and left Tembo for Ngorongoro crater at0640 (133841) We were at the gate at 0735 (133858) at an altitude of 5900ft. A day trip to the crater cost US$ 105 or payable in sh113, 400 (2 persons at $30 p/p, vehicle $30, crater service fee $15 The drive to the crater rim was absolutely stunning and absolutely beautiful; we were climbing all the time through dense mist and low cloud. there was a lot of trees and thick vegetation. At this location on a narrow mountain road with very steep sides we encountered a buffalo. There is a one way descent and ascent road to and from the crater floor and only negotiated by a 4X4.At the ascent road there is another way down where the Masai take their cattle down to the floor for grazing. We were on the crater floor at 0900 and km reading (133892). We saw a variety of game and it was a pleasant day's outing. Very busy with safari vehicles from the various lodges on the rim above and from Arusha We left the floor at 1450 (133959) and were at the entrance gate at 1615 (133982) When we were at the top we came across a local guy from a lodge who had been stuck since 1000. Mike towed him to the highest point and he then proceeded to coast all the way down to the entrance. He was going so fast we couldn't keep up with him and met him again at the exit all in one piece. Back at Tembo at (133991).This was a 150 km outing
Saturday 27th left camp at 0810 and stopped in Karatu village and bought one loaf of bread not too fresh. On the way to Lake Manyara stopped at the Shirt Shack and bought coffee and T Shirts for us and for presents. There were clean restrooms here. The shop is on the right hand side coming from Manyara before Karatu. We nearly got taken out by a Land Rover coming around a bend at speed and trying to overtake a bus -never been so close to death. A day trip into Manyara cost $ 80 ($25 p/p and $30 for the vehicle) Drove through thick forest in Manyara and then onto hippo pools. Saw lots of birdlife and various games. We were back at the main gate at 1435 at (134087) Went into town and bought fresh bread. In Karatu filled up with Diesel 850sh p/litre 81 litre 68850sh (134117). There is a curio shop near the turn off to Tembo where we bought some items. If one is in Arusha then purchase from the Heritage centre, where there is a huge choice and reasonably priced, as we fond out on our return visit.
Sunday we woke to a slight drizzle early in the morning the campsite is on a coffee plantation on like a plateau. Good ablutions with hot showers (donkey boiler). Our first evening we were greeted with much enthusiasm and given a warm welcome. The staff brought us mealies prepared on a fire which we accepted and ate some. They then returned with more but we declined as we felt we shouldn't accept any more as these people didn't have much We repaid the hospitality when we left. At night they posted a guard at our camp in the form of a Masai in traditional dress and armed with bow and a quiver of arrows. The staff assured us that this weapon would be used on any intruders. One night Ria went to the ablution and on her way back went off course and the next moment the Masai came out of nowhere and gently nudged her back on course to our caravan. Camping was either $ 3 0r $ 5 p/p/p/day.? Left Tembo at 0710 (134135) and were at Ngorongoro gate at 0800 (134144) to travel to Serengeti one has to travel through the conservation area and here we paid the Transit fee of $90 for two and the vehicle. If we had decided to go down to the crater again then there would have been the crater fee of $15. As mentioned before it is quite a steep climb to the top and Mike's vehicle started to boil again, so Ria and I went onto AC Africa lodge and unhitched our van in their parking lot after much talking and explaining., this was at 0910 We went back for them but Mike felt we were almost at the top and so we continued Took the Serengeti turn off and we hadn't gone far when Mike had a puncture. The road was very stony with sharp stones and heavily corrugated, dusty and potholed. When travelling at about 60kms per hour the vehicle slid across the road and was difficult to control. We didn't want to reduce tyre pressure due to the stones. To date this is the worst road I have ever travelled on (worse than driving the length of Kariba, The Sesfontein Puros road and the Lower Zambezi). I got on the radio to Mike and suggested we didn't come back this way as it was too terrible, to which he immediately agreed. Seeing we were to go to Nairobi for the vehicle we could travel up along Lake Victoria and enter Kenya near Tarime. To make matters worse the road was busy with safari operators transporting the fly INS between Arusha and Serengeti and vice versa. As they knew every kilometre of this road they travelled at high speed, either coming towards us or overtaking in their Land Rovers. The one client said she was so scared that she just put her hands on her head, closed her eyes and prayed for a safe trip. We were in Serengeti park at 1245 (134234) and at Naabi gate at1323 (134253). It took us 6 hours to do 100kms and 1 puncture stop. An average of 16. 8 km/hr Checked in at the gate, left at 1400 and were at the campsite at (134313) We were to spend two nights in Serengeti camping and three nights outside at Serengeti Stopover campsite and chalets. We paid at the entrance $ 260 (2 p/p/day $120, vehicle2 days $60, 2 p/p/day camping $80)
Monday 29th Went for game drive and saw a wide selection of game ( Zebra and Wildebeest gathering for the migration to the Masai Mara, Lion, lots of elephant, Grant and Thompson's Gazelle, Impala, Topis, Giraffe, Buffalo, Hippos, Birds. Got lost a few times even though we had a map. Ended at (134425) 112 km
The facilities are few and far between in Serengeti. No shower facilities, and long drop Asian toilets enough to make your stomach turn. We had our own shower arrangement but the Over Landers in their trucks had to do with the tap at the water reservoir and the ladies had to try and be as private as possible and they were forced to use the ablution where as we could drive to the central admin complex where there were proper facilities
Tuesday 29th made our way to the western corridor and Ndabaka gate. Saw plenty Wildebeest and Zebra on the way and made a note of their location for our visit over the next day or two. This road was quite terrible. We saw many of the "Tsetse fly blankets" in dark colours ( blue, black, grey) I have previously read up about this practice in the book by Michael Main, Zambezi Journey of a River ( well worth getting hold of and reading). These blankets are odour baited traps. It was identified what odour they were attracted to and the blankets impregnated with poison and then hung up across game reserves. I don't know if this practice continues here as a lot of the traps were tattered and there are lots of Tsetse flies around. Not all people are allergic to their bite (they pierce through thick clothing never mind an elephants hide), which I am and came out in swollen weals which became weepy, itchy and only dried up after a few days. We left Serengeti at Ndabaka gate at 1350 (134568). Camped at Serengeti Stopover ended the day at (134570).
Wed 30th June Left camp at 0920 and drove around the Lake Victoria area and ended up at Speke Bay Lodge. Excellent facilities on a lake shore setting. There is camping here but one should first check as I think you only camp with a reservation. Contact: spekebay@africaonline.co.tz Tel+255(0)28 262 1236 PO Box 953 Mwanza, Tanzania. www.spekebay.com The lodge is only 17 km from Ndabaka entrance gate We had a lovely restful day at the Lodge. Sat and had tea and later lunch under the trees on the lake shore. Lunch came to 25800sh (2 Hamburgers 10,000, 2 Fish Tilapia 11,000, 3 soda 1800, 2 beers 3,000) The Lodge has boats and canoes that they take you out onto the Lake
Thursday July 1st left Stopover camp for Serengeti 0720 (134596) The day in the park was fantastic. We saw thousands upon thousands of Wildebeest and huge numbers of Zebra. We saw a minor crossing at the Grumeti River. The crocodiles were huge, just lazing around. We saw a couple of Wildebeest carcases and whenever we drove over causeways the stench was terrible from bowel excreta. Where ever we drove we saw long columns of migrating animals and they would pause and the herds would grow in huge numbers. Our timing could not have been better as I am sure in a few days this lot would have disappeared except for the resident ones who don't migrate for one reason or the other. The crossing at this time of year is not difficult, apart from the loose stony river bed as the river is very low at this time of year. The return in November is much more dramatic once the rains have fallen and rivers flowing. A truly rewarding and wonderful day in Serengeti. For those of you who have seen Serengeti the Migration at the IMAX theatre, don't expect to see any thing like that as the movie was filmed over many years at different locations and put together. Having said that I am pleased and happy to have made the trip and experience what we did. During our stay at Stopover we were troubled by ants on a few occasions and really bitten. The staff came along and poured a mixture of oil and kerosene (I think) around our site. Ria made the mistake of spilling water which made it worse. It is very dry here and they come out at night in their thousands. We were attacked on our last night, so the staff gave us a room to sleep in. On our travels through Tanzania we noticed fresh drinking water availability was a problem. Water was always being transported from the nearest river or lake by cart, bicycle and on foot. for washing cooking and cleaning. The locals drank the water maybe after boiling it or I am sure they were used to it and their systems were able fight the bacteria Whenever we came across a source of good clear clean looking water we filled up our tanks and purified what we needed for drinking When we first arrived at Serengeti Stopover Ria opted for a shower only to return and report no water. The staff gave us a chalet to use for ablution facilities only. Good clean hot showers and toilets Later on that day more towards evening to two young men arrived pulling two hand carts loaded with 25 litre plastic cans of water which they had hauled from the Lake. They then proceeded to the ablution where a 1,000 litre tank was standing on a structure about 7 metres high. One of them climbed up and proceeded to haul the cans up by rope and empty them into the tank After witnessing this we used water very sparingly.
Friday 2nd July we left Stopover for the Kenyan border at 0745. We were now approximately half way on or journey with respect to days and km travelled. Our aim was to get to Nairobi as soon as possible.
The original plan after Serengeti was to go back via Arusha and down to the T Junction at Chalinze where we would go to Dar es Salaam and Mike and Margaret go home via Malawi, their time was short due to business commitments. It was very slow going to the border as Mike's vehicle was over heating. At Tarime (19 Km before the border) we put in fuel 1130 am. We were at Tanzanian customs at 12.05.
Customs asked to look in our caravans, Land Rovers and fridges, more curious than anything else. Left
Kenyan customs at 14.25
Vehicle giving problems and we had to stop frequently and drove between 50 to 60 km per hour. Arrived
exhausted at Kericho Garden Lodge at 1830 where we camped. We were given a room to use as our ablution.
People were nice and friendly, security good. We intended camping at Lake Nakuru but it was too late
They would not take US $ and we had to go into town and draw from an ATM. Ria's NBS card was the only one
accepted. It is advisable to check with your bank on the use of your card.
We noticed a big difference once we crossed the border
The country side we had traveled (Kenyan highlands), apart from the beauty was very fertile. Thousands upon
thousands of hectare of tea, mealies, cotton and forest plantations. Looks like they could supply most of
Africa with maize
We passed many Churches and schools. All the kids go to school and wear different uniforms. People appear to
be better off, well dressed. Even the dogs seemed to be fatter!
Many more cars on the road and agriculture is on a par with the RSA if not better
We left Kericho at 0810
We dropped from 8500 ft down to Nakuru, a big town (City) Very busy and modern. First town without bumps
Flamingo camping next to Lake Nakuru. Road was terrible, very bumpy and potholed all day. Passed Lake
Elementeita, didn't go in but seemed very nice and also there is the Great Rift Valley Lodge and golf resort
We also drove passed Lake Naivasha
The Kenyans keep them selves busy, making furniture and growing vegetables. Climbed again as we were still
following the rift valley (9000 ft)
We now had Nairobi in our sights. Entrance to city quite filthy. We were stopped in the city and told to take
alternative route as there were big protest marches. There were riot police allover and stones allover the road. Mike
phoned a business contact that met us and showed us how to get to camp. Nairobi is much busier than Jhb, the
traffic was unbelievable. Arrived at about 1445.
Ria and I were to continue on our trip as we still had a busy itinerary. Mike decided that once his vehicle
was fixed, he would go directly home via Tanzania, Malawi, Mozambique, and Zimbabwe
We camped the night and said a sad farewell to them on Sunday 4th July and left Upper Hill camp at 0810 for
Arusha. Eventually left Nairobi outskirts at 0905 after doing some shopping at BP garage as the main stores
only open at 1000
Nairobi was very cloudy and misty this morning but we were told it would clear up later
We were now close to the border and saw a campsite and restaurant and another one a km further on. At the
border there was Riverside Lodge and camping. Arrived at approx 1130. Always a lot of beggars at border posts,
usually kids
At Kenyan customs we had to pay 200 K Sh for "Overtime "as we were crossing the border on a Sunday
At 1240 we were through Tanzanian post and had to pay $ 30 road tax. Much easier at this post than when we
came in at Tunduma. Arrived in Arusha at 1455
Drove around looking for camping but only found the Masai and the Tanzanite which we opted for. Not the best
but had to accept. They didn't have ablutions. We were given a none too clean room to use as our ablution No
hot water and had to use candles. Very damp in this area as we were next to a mountain and a stream ran through
the grounds. People very friendly and helpful. Good security. This must have some hotel in its heyday.
Arusha National park is adjacent to the hotel. We were informed the roads were very bad in the park
Monday July 5th went into Arusha to buy Land Rover rear light lens. Tried the Tanzanian National Tourist board
for stickers but got nothing. At the Heritage cultural Village (Opposite the TNT board) visited for a couple
of hours. Curios here cheaper than any where else we had seen. Very well laid out and run properly. Can buy
tea, coffee, T Shirts, car stickers, carvings etc. Can also have something to eat here and more important,
flush toilets
Went back to Tanzanite hotel to collect caravan and had lunch. Left at 1250
The road from Arusha was very good and little traffic. We were fortunate to see Mount Kilimanjaro, a beautiful
sight and took some photos. Arrived at Pangani camping at 1640 Spent a very restless night due to passing
trucks and trains. Pangani is 45 km from Mombo
Left Pangani Tuesday July 6th at 0755 and arrived in Dar es Salaam at 1430
Booked in at Silver sands hotel and made arrangements to have our vehicle looked after while we visited
Zanzibar. Took all our fridge and freezer contents to the hotel kitchen facility and switched off our units in
the vehicle. We also arranged a taxi to collect us and take us to the ferry in the morning. Be wary of touts
when buying your ferry ticket
Spent three nights on Zanzibar Island. The first morning we did a spice tour. This arrangement involves
being transported to village where the residents grow all the different spices you use in daily food
preparation and whatever. It is quite a long walk and one is given the opportunity to identify the particular
spice before being told what it is. At the end of the tour there is the local fruit to sample and various
packets of spices to purchase. The afternoon was spent at the hotel. Next morning we were taken to Stone town
and met our guide who took us through streets and alleys, including the markets, open air butcher, fish market
and saw "elephant" bananas, historical buildings and slave chambers.
The two mornings were quite tiring and we were pleased we didn't try and do both tours in one day
We returned to Dar on Saturday, sea very choppy and people were sea sick. We spent the night at the Silver
Sands hotel. Although we took a room on both occasions there are camping facilities with ablutions here
Whilst I was getting the vehicle and caravan ready I saw a group of people working on their Engel fridge and
on enquiring I was told the plug on the cord was faulty. I had spares and sold one of them and they were so
happy to have resolved the problem
Sunday 11th July, packed the vehicle and loaded our goodies into the fridges and left at 0815
We headed for Mbeya and stayed the night at the same mission centre
Tue July 13 th saw us on our way and heading for Malawi. This was a very fertile part of Tanzania and under
cultivation was, tea, coffee, vegetables, fruit, rice. Houses were of a better quality and the people better
dressed
The trip to the border was mountainous and quite steep at times and also so beautiful.
Tukuyu was a big town with colonial buildings gone to ruin.
Noticed the people still carting water, pity they can't have it on tap
At the border I changed money on the street without a problem. We cleared immigration and customs by midday.
There is camping on the Malawi side and as one travels along the lake there are lodges and camp sites. We
encountered a very pot holed road after the border. Instead of staying at Livingstonia we decided to go onto
Nkhata bay and traveled alongside the Nyika plateau. Quite a tricky mountain pass through the Viphya mountains
to Mzuzu, but most enjoyable.
At a police roadblock I enquired after the time as I had forgotten to set my watch and the police man promptly
set it for me. We gained an hour so we were not going to be late at Nkhata bay. Passed through a few
roadblocks and were asked for driving license, third party and temporary import permit.
We drove down to Nkhata bay which was very busy and all sorts of activity on the go We decided to backtrack
about a kilometer up the hill and camped there. Not the best campsite and the locals very noisy. (Worst
campsite on the trip)
Left Nkhata bay the next morning and passed through a rubber plantation where we were advised not to stop and
buy rubber balls etc from casual vendors
We stopped at Ngala beach lodge and had our pad kos and coffee there (if you stop on the road children quickly
gather and stare at you, but don't beg, the people of Malawi are extremely poor) the lodge and campsite is run
by an S African couple. Very nice facilities and setting. Recommended
Most of the trees have been chopped down (charcoal) except for the mango trees
Made for Senga bay and got lost looking for the Wheelhouse and ended up at the "Steps" camping next
to Meridian Lodge. Very nice setting on the lakeshore, good ablution, hot water, security and electrical
points
It was very windy and the lake so rough we could not take a boat to the island to see the giant monitor
lizards. Didn't get much sleep as the wind blew the whole night and the caravan swayed even with the
stabilizers.
Spent the morning tidying up camping equipment and then walked to the lodge and had a nice lunch (Magic
hamburger and chips and a couple of beers).
In the afternoon we went into Salima and did some shopping, including eggs (We were offered 6 eggs for a $ 5
in camp!!) and bought some tomatoes from the street vendors Had a light supper and went to bed early. The wind
really picked up and I had to get up and remove and tie down the one side of the fly sheet. The caravan moved
so much we hardly slept.
Just before sunset an overlander truck arrived and after the people set up their tents went to the pub. At the
time I was tying down the fly sheet they were running around looking for their tents! The one tent ended up
against our vehicle. At this stage the waves were big and rough and the lake looked like a sea.
Next day we decided to move as the weather prospects didn't look too good and the chances of a boat trip was
out of the question
We encountered many roadblocks in Malawi without problems but at some encountered attitude problems, maybe it
was us!!
Made for Lilongwe, a very nice city, and stopped at Shoprite Checkers where I ended up stranded at the till as
I didn't have enough cash and had to go to a Bureau de Change and return to pay for my purchases. Left the
city at 1005 and made for the Border. We went through the Malawian border and drove for what seemed an age, at
least 5 Km before the Zambian post. Apparently a new border post is in the pipeline to be built
We arrived in Chipata at 5 pm and made for Mama Rula's campsite
Chipata has one traffic light but many speed humps
Noticed along the way today trees being cut down for fuel.
We opted for Chalet at $10 (Camping $5) en suite, a communal kitchen with wash-up, hot plate, electric kettle
and fridge!!
The campsite is huge with lawns and shade and good ablutions with hot water and electrical points. There is a
pub and restaurant facility. Overlander also utilize the camping. The place is run by S Africans. There is a
second campsite in Chipata but have no info on it.
We were so tired that we were in bed by 8 o'clock
Next morning we left Mama Rula's for South Luangwa. This was to take us 5 hours to do the 138 Km to the
Wildlife campsite. When we talk about the different bad roads we have been on they all have their own
"description" and are unique. This one was no different. A sand road with many potholes,
corrugations and sloping deep ditch on either side which was ok but the angle was so severe I feared for the
caravan and kept to the middle and negotiated my way through the holes and this is why it took us so long. The
first half was better than the rest.
On the return trip at about the halfway mark a German couple in a double cab enquired of us if they were on
the right road, how much further and what about the road
We told them to keep going and that they were halfway and the worst was still to come.
He raised his eyes skyward, thanked us and continued. As a matter fact the most popular topic with other
travelers on our Safari was "What's the road like"
This road joins the list of others mentioned earlier in part one.
Our site was nicely situated right on the bank of the Luangwa, it took us quite awhile to place Chobe in the
optimum spot and finally setup camp with a small patio.
Another night with little sleep as elephants kept us in awe for a long time. They brushed past caravan and
patio tent, we could easily have lent out and touched them.
Some younger campers were stranded in the ablutions and only came out once the security guard convinced them
the ellies had moved off far enough
We spent four nights here and the game drives were good and saw a good variety of wild life By the third night
we were the only ones in camp except for our nightly visit from the ellies. On the last morning I left for the
park at 6 am and gave a few backpackers a lift (some had to sit on the roof rack as we had taken out the back
seat at home) to the main road and was to hitch hike out of here!!
That afternoon we packed the vehicle in preparation for our "lovely" trip tomorrow back to Chipata
Wed 21 July we left the filling station on the main road at 0840 ( Put in fuel on arrival or when convenient
as these pumps do run dry ) By the time we went to the bank and Shoprite in Chipata and fuel it was 1515 by
the time we got to Mama Rula's. We were quite tired and decided to take the same room as last time. Only this
time an overlander truck arrived and the campers partied till quite late and I had to ask them to tone it
done. This was the first time on our trip we had noisy campers.
Next morning we left for Lusaka and encountered a very badly potholed (Tar) road. At times so bad that we drove on the edge of the road > At times it was not possible to avoid the sharp edges and this eventually resulted in our first mishap of our trip. A blow out and one tyre and tube kaput. A local resident passing by with wife kids and the ever present bicycle offered to help. We were on our way after 40 minutes and my helper K10, 000 to the good. We also encountered a detour on the way and I am sure by now much progress has been made in tarring this national road.
We encountered a Tsetse fly barrier but the official only looked in and around the vehicle and let us pass by. Not like in the days gone by when one had to drive into a shed and the vehicle sprayed underneath, sides and wheels and then a couple shots inside from a flit pump. There were hundreds of bags of charcoal for sale on the side of the road; we also noticed this on the way up. This is a major fuel source for the Zambian people.
Got to Pioneer camp at 1700. The camp has a campers Kitchen, electricity, and fridge, and deepfreeze, wash
up, hot plates. We didn't cook but opted for a meal in the restaurant which took ages to prepare and the T
bones were none too tender. Ablutions were ok but very limited. Must be a problem if the camp is busy.
We were up and nearly away early next morning. When we got to the gate security couldn't find the key and
eventually found a hacksaw and cut the chain
We drove through Lusaka in rush hour but were able to notice the city looked modern and clean. The taxi
drivers were well behaved and know how to drive
We stopped in Mazabuka at Shoprite and bought shortbread, pies and sandwiches from the takeaway, very nice.
We decided to drive through Zim to Kazangula and skip the ferry. We sailed through Zambian customs and Immigration only to be greeted by chaos on the Zim side. Drove the 70 odd km to the Zim/Bots border and got through without problems. After going through the customary vet control procedure and search (a new modern facility has been built) we were at Toro lodge just after 1810.
Spent the next morning in town and booked a river cruise for the next afternoon.
Next day we went into the park and in the afternoon did the river cruise. If you have been into the park then you don't have to pay park fees again when you do the boat cruise, provided it is all done on the same day.
Mon 26th left Toro lodge and made for Francistown and camped just before at Woodlands. This was to be the only incident of our trip. During the night thieves stole what ever was left out side and also cut a slit in the bed section of the caravan.
Campers next to us had their cooler box of food and a pair of boots stolen, bought in the UK for 100 pounds
Next morning we set sail for home. An hour after clearing customs and immigration on the SA side we had a puncture on the tar road! I reckon we got off lightly with two punctures on the whole adventure.
We got home on the 27th July at 1800hrs, only to find there was no water (burst pipe in the area) and had to take water from the Landy!
After 52 nights and 13100 Km our wonderful safari was over. I was b---ered, broken and bent, but it was well worth it.
John Hawkins
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